Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument

Wild Lands

“…the Escalante country belongs to us. It lies entirely within the public domain, and is therefore the property not of land and cattle companies, not of oil and mining corporations, not of the Utah State Highway Department or any Utah Chamber of Commerce, but of all Americans. It’s our country. Or should be. It’s suppose to be. Edward Abbey, 1971.

About 80 percent of Utah is public land. A state that is mostly run by the BLM, forest service, national park, etc. Although each agency has different intentions, one thing holds true – these are OUR lands. Lands to explore, to escape to, to gain a sense of place, to lose yourself or to find yourself. America has places set aside where no development, logging or mining can exist. Places where roads aren’t paved and where trees are left to rot on the ground – only to grow new life again. Places where water flows free without dams, except made by beavers. Where the night sky isn’t interrupted by light pollution and when you look up into the vastness of space the stars are so dense finding the big dipper is challenging. Places where the sense of time escapes you, letting you to wonder free. FREE! A feeling so powerful it is hard to describe because to be free means something different for everyone. Have you really ever felt freedom – a life or a moment without distractions? I strive for this freedom everyday.

The Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument is one of the wildest places in America – just barely escaping the claws of developers. It encompasses 1.7 million acres of land across southern Utah. This land is so diverse and grand you would need multiple lifetimes to explore it. I spent a week and a half here. Escalante is the type of place where one mile feels like ten and where canyons turn into cathedrals. It’s an intimate place with a power streaming through every grain of sand. This area has a history so intense you actually feel the struggles and triumphs of people’s past. When you’re hiking across the rugged country you feel how the cowboy felt when leading a herd of cattle, but when gathering water from the willow shaded streams you feel native. The history of the Escalante is seen on the canyon walls through petroglyphs and pictographs - stories portraying great hunts of big horn sheep, symbols and human figures that only the original artist knows the full details. Secrets hide in every canyon. The adventures I did where some of the best I have ever experienced. But the thing about this place is that every footprint made in the sand here will disappear when the wind comes, wiping away your presence so the next traveler can discover the secrets this place has to reveal to them – this is Escalante.

Pictures: Above left: Me looking out onto fence canyon in the Grand Staircase NM. Above right: petroglyphs of human figures. Lower left: Ian sitting in Ringtail canyon, the darkest canyon we have gone into. Lower right: me standing on an exposed pillar in Box Death Hollow wilderness

Road Trip 2010

Heading Toward the Middle of Nowhere

Ian and I “officially” started our road trip on “The All American Road” highway 12 in southern Utah. The road weaves through a series of National Parks and Monuments. Zion, Bryce Canyon, Capital Reef and Grand Staircase are desert fairylands for the tourists mostly observing these sites out the window, but for myself, they are the most roughed and wild landscapes I have ever laid foot on.

Our first stop (but not our last) is Zion national park, which lies in the southwest corner of Utah. A geological wonder so intense it takes your breath away. Red sandstone layers line every angle of the road. It is the type of drive where you swerve all over the road because your eyes are so fixated on the intense landscape. But to truly experience such a brilliant place is through the mountains drainages, the Canyons. Water is the mastermind behind shaping this place into a maze of intimate corridors. Between the soft structure of the rock and the immense power of flash floods, narrow canyons lie hidden in the mountains. Our goal is to explore these treasures.

Canyoneering ranges in technical difficulty, from walking on a flat riverbed with slow moving water to rappelling hundreds of feet through waterfalls then swimming in water recently filled with snow melt. We prefer the latter. Ropes, wetsuits, harnesses and belay equipment provide us the means to explore the canyons. To enter the drainages you must first walk through the desert, more specifically the ‘slickrock.’ Slickrock is the term used for sandstone formation, yet it is not slick, rather it is like sandpaper. The rough landscape of sandstone domes cover the majority of the landscapes until you arrive to the mouth of the canyon and an emerald green paradise welcomes the weary traveler. Shade covers your shoulders and you are now at the mercy of the water course. You start descending the gravity fed route and soon you are trapped between two walls of red and golden streaked sandstone. The walls tower so high dark consumes the already unworldly experience until streams of light filter through the narrow opening from above. The canyons meander, leaving unknown obstacles around every corner. The water course may lead you to a 150 foot waterfall to rappel off then to a 15 foot waterslide then to a boulder jammed between the two walls leaving you to climb over and drop onto the other side. There are also mandatory swimming sections in water so cold it takes you breath away. I compare the adventure to a real life video game. The days are long from 3 to 10 hours of constant motion and scrambling your way through roughed terrain. Unfortunately many of Zion’s canyons are closed due to the high water flow of the Virgin River, but we promised ourselves we will go back for more.

More stories of backpacking and canyoneering in the Escalante Grand Staircase National Monument, camping along the Grand Canyon, and exploring the expanse of the Colorado Plateau will be coming soon. Many highlights of the trip so far, but seeing a lecture by Craig Childs, a famous natural history author, is among the best. He taught me this- once you experience these desert landscapes and the sand runs through your blood, the place becomes intrinsically apart of you now and forever.

Where did the snow go?

After seeing record breaking snow fall depths (20 inches in one day in Spokane; 36 inches in Coeur d alene) the end of December I imagined this was going to be the best ski season ever! But as the month of January ends I was proven terribly wrong. With the high pressure systems rolling through the PNW no snow has shown up in our area since that memorable December storm. However the blue bird days have been endless. And nothing beats driving above the foggy and dreary valley of Spokane to meet the sun's welcoming rays.

Picture: Mom enjoying the view from the summit of Mount Spokane

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Weekend Holiday

It was an unconventional Thanksgiving as my mom and I visited our friendly neighbors of the north – Canada. A 90 minute ferry ride landed us in Victoria, BC offering visitors a city experience, but with a small town attitude. Getting lost is not a worry because the minute you open a map a stranger approaches you offering their guiding service - Even if it is a homeless guy who asks for a small fee. Not veering far from its British roots, Victoria is surrounded by world renowned gardens, cobblestone streets and English pubs. Double Decker buses wander through the streets and at high noon, tea is offered in almost every restaurant and hotel. The city is softly outlined by ocean bays with tall ships floating in the marinas. Yet the prime waterfront real estate viewing the snowy peaks of Washington’s Olympic mountain range is occupied with hotels. The quaint small town atmosphere is almost extinct as tourism invades the city. It is always the small hidden gems that receive the most impact. Whether it’s an island in Thailand or a remote coastal town of Alaska a tradeoff occurs with the gain of economic viability – the community and culture slowly disappear. Yet remnants of the past will always remain because they are appealing to outsiders. I am an outsider to the places I travel and I appreciate the beauty they have to offer.

Mountains, Lakes, Waterfalls and Mom

Liberty Bell

Summer in the
North Cascades, once again.Lots of hard work pays off once I hit the trail and finally get out there. A play pin for climbers, the North Cascades has something for everyone...literally. The fourth of July weekend brought crowds to the trail heads. Motor recreationists cluttered the highways. I was also one the of the lucky folks who had a three day weekend, but unlike the tourists, I don't mind getting up in the morning to avoid the congestion. An alpine start was the key to climbing the ever so popular Becky Route on Liberty Bell. 0430 on the road, 0530 on the trail, 0730 tied in and ready to climb. On the the third pitch we saw 2 parties of 6 trek up the gully and and then another party four. Although tough to endure the early morning chill, it was worth having the mountain to ourselves.
Pictures: Top Left: Cutthroat Peak from the summit
Right: North and South Early Winter Spire, Lexington Tower, Concord Tower, Liberty Bell

Spring in the Desert

What were once hundreds of social trails weaving throughout Joshua tree National Park have now been covered in a thin green understory of vegetation I have yet to identify. The start of Spring in the Park has changed the landscape dramatically. The moist air from the winter months and the occasional rain storms has resulted in blooming of the Yucca species, numerous stagnant ponds hidden in the rock gullies. The ponds have their own ecosystems with amphibians and mosquitos. Later in the season I will show kids the lizards that have drown in the precious and rare water catches.

Winter Ends

Winter ends for Ian and I in the beautiful high desert of Central Oregon. With about 40 days between Mt Bachelor and the backcountry our skies and our legs have retired. A short season, but our job calls us back south, replacing the volcanic cinder cones of the Southern Cascades with the granite peaks of the Sierras.
What I will miss...Climbing at Smith Rock, skiing in the backcountry at Three Creeks and Tilly Jane, hut life on Santiam Pass, breweries in Bend, snowmobiling with the Harvey crew, ice climbing at Paulina, the wonderful ladies at Coldwell Banker, babysitting the puppy, the roommates, Ian's mom and sis, and Bill's double belt.
Picture: view from Mountain View Shelter

Ski Tour Begins

With blackout dates in effect at Mt Bachelor, we traveled far across the beautiful state of Oregon to Ski Anthony Lakes. With rumors of deep powder shots, no crowds and accessible backcountry access, Ian and I thought the 5 hour drive through packed snow would be worth the journey. Little did we know, as we slept after the long drive high strong winds were scouring the terrain into an icy bowl. We woke up with the single lift of Ski Anthony Lakes motionless. Later it was confirmed the resort was closed. As customers drove sadly away back to their heated homes, Ian and I skinned up the 1000 vertical feet of groomed track and witnessed first hand the winds on top of the lift. Icy, windy conditions didn’t defer us from dreaming about the endless backcountry possibilities. It was a great reconnaissance…and the winds blew us back to western Oregon. We stumbled upon a more promising ski adventure. Three hours east on I-84 landed us in Cooper Spur ski resort (affiliated to Mt Hood Meadows). For the low low price of $10 we skied the night away until 7pm. The quaint resort ,with nothing spectacular to report, had a hidden gem located near it. Tilly Jane trail to Elliott Drainage, a 2090 ft ascent. With no winds, dumping snow and 2 motivated folks looking to work for some good turns. This day hike proved to be a well worth the 500+ miles tour around Oregon.
Photos: Top Left- Me skinning atAnthony Lakes looking on Angell Peak (8,646') and Lees Peak (8,626'). Bottom Right- Ian at timberline looking out at the drainage basin of Elliott Glacier, the NE face of Mt Hood. Video- Ian banking up the turns

High Winds and Desert Lands

The weeks have gone by fast during the months of March and April. My travels with work have sent me to the most remote desert lands to the most beautiful shores of the Pacific Ocean. Long journeys on the concrete jungles of the California’s freeways have planted me in Anza Borrego State Park, the Colorado River, Red Rocks National Park and Catalina Island. Though all locations are unique in their beauty and ecology, the weather systems flowing through theses areas, however, have been oddly similar. For five weeks straight high winds, rain or lighting stormed throughout our programs.
In Anza: Heavy rain with an intense lighting storm sent 80 kids in their tents for 5 hours for protection.
Colorado River: 50 mph wind gusts left 180 kids stuck to the shores rather than happily canoeing down river. So what do you do with 180 students and your canoeing day has been canceled??? Create a carnival for them at camp of course!! As I facilitated the ring toss, my fellow employees either dressed up like bearded ladies, painted faces, told fortunes, etc.
Catalina Island: Canceled snorkel and kayak blocks due to winds and surgy waters. More hiking anyone?
Each week another epic weather system rolls in leaving the naturalists, program coordinators and cooks in stressful situations. Risk management, decision making and assessing each situation as it comes has never been so important. Not to mention the flexibility of changing your daily schedule and entertaining kids for hours of down time.

Photos: Anza Sunrise, Staff getting wind blown, Colorado River, Parson's Beach, Red Rocks

The Beauty of the Rainshadow Effect

Sometimes it’s refreshing not to see the color green. Not to say I am against the lush temperate forests of Washington’s West coast, but the red-orange rustic grounds of the steppe deserts of the East are where my roots lye. The thirsty land along the Columbia Basin is a familiar setting and nothing compares to sitting and soaking in the cold dry winter air with the desert sun setting behind the basalt cliffs. I was again visiting the basin for a small rock climbing excursion with Ian, who I persuaded in joining me. The drawn out persuasion was well worth it and the day climbing the desert rock proceeded to be more than delightful. After successfully climbing The Uprising and Don Coyote, and lead belaying Ian on a few routes I would never attempt in touching due to my early stage in the climbing world, we packed up and walked the dry land in search for the Sunshine Wall. This wall, almost unreachable by first glance, is found by following a “secret” passageway. A tight cave-like squeeze in-between the enormous pillars, that make up the wall, will get you to mother land of climbing. Numerous perfect dihedral columns line up tall side-by-side, like stiff soldiers ready for battle. The sun glowing on them, pronouncing their rich golden color makes it quite pleasing to the eye. TOO BAD IT’S BASALT! None the less, roping up here would be fun. Until next time Sunshine Wall, until next time…

Kayaking the Upper Skagit

When the only thing that surrounds you is white water you quickly realize that man is not in control of this world. We do not shape the globe, we are not the all mighty, we do not have the technology that could even compare to the strength or complexity of a river. These creatures are far superior. And yes, I refer to rivers as creatures because today I saw, for the first time, a river come alive. A sight you can only see if you sit low, face to face with a rapid hovering over you. Nothing else matters at this single intense moment except you and this amazing creature, ready to tear you to pieces (except perhaps your dread-lock guide behind you yelling “PADDLE!” PADDLE!” PADDLE!”). But like all creatures, rivers have their soft spots and I know exactly where the river's soft spots are...eddies. Aaahh, eddies how I love thee so, you kept my boat still and safe as I watched my fellow peers flip and float upside down on your mighty rapids.

But before all the exciting stories about being dragged under water by the rapids, other details are worthy of mentioning. The Skagit River is the 2nd largest river in Washington, in which the Upper Skagit is rated a class II and III+ river. Our group boated a 14-mile stretch of the river, which is huged by tree-covered ridges and the home to the most populated species of Bald Eagles, who swooped from their snags and glided low across the river many times during our excursion.

We started our run at the put-in point at Goodell Creek Campground (where we camped the night before) which begins with easy class II rapids. Well the "easy class II rapids" didn't come too easy for me or my co-beginner kayaker and friend, Andrew, and we both flipped during the series of wave trains. Nothing compares to being underwater attached to a 40 lb boat dragging you along the strong current. When your upside down underwater your mind becomes extremely disorientated. Thinking my paddle was another kayak trying to T-rescue me, I grab the paddle and attempt to push my head above water. Well this obviously didn't work and went straight under, but not before inhaling a big gulp of water. With no breath left and viciously bobbing up and down with the rapids, I pulled my spray skirt and slide out of the kayak. My attempt to swim out of the rapids failed and Ethan, one of the guides, handed me my paddle and yelled to me to hang on to his boat, as he paddled the both of us to the river bank. My head was dizzy from being underwater for so long and I felt nauseous after swallowing about 10oz of river water. My whole body was shaking, not from the 45 degree water, but from my fear. Honestly, the only thing that kept me from not quitting was seeing my friend Andrew soaked from head to toe on the stream bank with me.

Even after training for 6 hours in a pond, nothing prepares you for the complex and unique dynamics of a river system. It's only when you ride the river for a few hours and understand the concept of letting the bottom half of your body "go" and letting the kayak be an extension to yourself and truly become one with the water is when you can ride the river with confidence. But the true excitement of the day came with the infamous "S-Bends", a series of three class III+ rapids separated by short stretches of flatwater in between. So this was it...and I wasn't about to go first. So I held back and waited as 3 of my peers went for it...I followed their path with Ryan, a guide, behind me. All I hear is the sounds of thunder as I sit face to face with these huge rapids hovering over me and of course Ryan yelling to me to paddle. And that's what I do...I paddle as hard as I possibly can (which is a lot of effort for a 5ft tall, 95lb girl). Paddling straight is the biggest challenge, especially when the water is moving you in all directions. But there was no way I was about to let the waves turn my boat to the side so it can easily tip me over, so I front stroke and side sweep as hard as I could to stabilize a forward direction...calm water awaits me as I finish and edge into an eddie.

As it turns out 3 of my peers flipped and the rest of us wait patiently as boats, paddles and bodies are recovered. The second set rapids awaits us along with our instruction...to stay as far away of a this huge hole located in the middle of the rapid as possible. Holes are like washer-machines, it you get caught in them they will take you under and spin you. So again I go for it, but only this time I am the first one to attempt, so I paddle with all my strength heading straight on to the rapids. Being sucked to right by this vicious hole I side sweep right as hard as I can until I edge smoothly into an eddie awaiting for me. I have this amazing view of this huge rapid and the exposed rock creating this vicious hole and witness 4 of my peers attempt it...3 of them flipping (luckily, no one getting caught in the hole). The last rapid is smooth and doesn't nearly compare to the first two and after that it was smooth sailing, accompanied by the highest adrenaline rush of my life. For wanting to quit within the first mile of the excursion to being the only person of two to not flip during the "S-Bends" I conclude this was a successful weekend. River kayaking...what a trip.

The Frenchman Coulee and Hot Drinks

Hot drinks anyone? So I think this weekend I rock climbed with some of the funniest people I have ever met. We laughed as much, if not more, than we climbed and we climbed a lot. Team OC, Andrew, Scottie and Jack (not to mention OC employee and experienced climber who tagged along for the ride, Dave), all stepped it up to make the rock climbing excursion to Vantage quite memorable. Between the 4 leaders they lead 11 pitches in 1 1/2 days for us beginner climbers to practice our skills on the verticle surfaces. After practicing in the indoor climbing walls prior to the trip, I was quite ill-prepared for the cold we endured this weekend. With temperatures in the lower 50's and winds up to 13mph, it felt like we were climbing up ice cubes rather than rocks. But for the OC Trio it was nothing compared to their loads of experience with the alpine, climbing ice and snow.

The venue of our excursion was held at the magnificent Frenchman Coulee (Vantage, WA). The rock that supported our ropes, in which we dangled so trustedly, was an outcrop of basalt cliffs formed in a sequence of pillars as a result of a lava-flow-cooling 10,000 yrs ago that has endured much weathering. The outcrop is quite young on a geological time scale and we witnessed this fact as the basalt occasionally crumbled and loosened on hand holds (note the helmets). As the sun (yes we did have sun!) set behind the igneous rock formations, the crew enjoyed fire, food, good company and not to forget HOT DRINKS! Keeping with the true Environmental Education (EE) tradition, team leader and fellow EE major, Andrew, kept it real and made sure the water was boiling. Also keeping true to the EE name, I added a little extra flavor to the boiling mix and everyone stayed comfortably warm (which is the entire purpose of hot drinks [with or without the extra flavor] to keep warm, an very important factor when exposed to the elements). Other memorable moments include midnight bouldering, pumped arms, first-time lead climbing (lil' Scottie), Crazy Dave and ass kickin', Jack's lead on the 5.10 (pictured above), Eric's obsession with Kokanee and the abominable snowman, reuniting with fellow kayakers and personally succeeding in climbing a reachy 5.8. Vantage climbing: what a trip.