Kayaking the Upper Skagit

When the only thing that surrounds you is white water you quickly realize that man is not in control of this world. We do not shape the globe, we are not the all mighty, we do not have the technology that could even compare to the strength or complexity of a river. These creatures are far superior. And yes, I refer to rivers as creatures because today I saw, for the first time, a river come alive. A sight you can only see if you sit low, face to face with a rapid hovering over you. Nothing else matters at this single intense moment except you and this amazing creature, ready to tear you to pieces (except perhaps your dread-lock guide behind you yelling “PADDLE!” PADDLE!” PADDLE!”). But like all creatures, rivers have their soft spots and I know exactly where the river's soft spots are...eddies. Aaahh, eddies how I love thee so, you kept my boat still and safe as I watched my fellow peers flip and float upside down on your mighty rapids.

But before all the exciting stories about being dragged under water by the rapids, other details are worthy of mentioning. The Skagit River is the 2nd largest river in Washington, in which the Upper Skagit is rated a class II and III+ river. Our group boated a 14-mile stretch of the river, which is huged by tree-covered ridges and the home to the most populated species of Bald Eagles, who swooped from their snags and glided low across the river many times during our excursion.

We started our run at the put-in point at Goodell Creek Campground (where we camped the night before) which begins with easy class II rapids. Well the "easy class II rapids" didn't come too easy for me or my co-beginner kayaker and friend, Andrew, and we both flipped during the series of wave trains. Nothing compares to being underwater attached to a 40 lb boat dragging you along the strong current. When your upside down underwater your mind becomes extremely disorientated. Thinking my paddle was another kayak trying to T-rescue me, I grab the paddle and attempt to push my head above water. Well this obviously didn't work and went straight under, but not before inhaling a big gulp of water. With no breath left and viciously bobbing up and down with the rapids, I pulled my spray skirt and slide out of the kayak. My attempt to swim out of the rapids failed and Ethan, one of the guides, handed me my paddle and yelled to me to hang on to his boat, as he paddled the both of us to the river bank. My head was dizzy from being underwater for so long and I felt nauseous after swallowing about 10oz of river water. My whole body was shaking, not from the 45 degree water, but from my fear. Honestly, the only thing that kept me from not quitting was seeing my friend Andrew soaked from head to toe on the stream bank with me.

Even after training for 6 hours in a pond, nothing prepares you for the complex and unique dynamics of a river system. It's only when you ride the river for a few hours and understand the concept of letting the bottom half of your body "go" and letting the kayak be an extension to yourself and truly become one with the water is when you can ride the river with confidence. But the true excitement of the day came with the infamous "S-Bends", a series of three class III+ rapids separated by short stretches of flatwater in between. So this was it...and I wasn't about to go first. So I held back and waited as 3 of my peers went for it...I followed their path with Ryan, a guide, behind me. All I hear is the sounds of thunder as I sit face to face with these huge rapids hovering over me and of course Ryan yelling to me to paddle. And that's what I do...I paddle as hard as I possibly can (which is a lot of effort for a 5ft tall, 95lb girl). Paddling straight is the biggest challenge, especially when the water is moving you in all directions. But there was no way I was about to let the waves turn my boat to the side so it can easily tip me over, so I front stroke and side sweep as hard as I could to stabilize a forward direction...calm water awaits me as I finish and edge into an eddie.

As it turns out 3 of my peers flipped and the rest of us wait patiently as boats, paddles and bodies are recovered. The second set rapids awaits us along with our instruction...to stay as far away of a this huge hole located in the middle of the rapid as possible. Holes are like washer-machines, it you get caught in them they will take you under and spin you. So again I go for it, but only this time I am the first one to attempt, so I paddle with all my strength heading straight on to the rapids. Being sucked to right by this vicious hole I side sweep right as hard as I can until I edge smoothly into an eddie awaiting for me. I have this amazing view of this huge rapid and the exposed rock creating this vicious hole and witness 4 of my peers attempt it...3 of them flipping (luckily, no one getting caught in the hole). The last rapid is smooth and doesn't nearly compare to the first two and after that it was smooth sailing, accompanied by the highest adrenaline rush of my life. For wanting to quit within the first mile of the excursion to being the only person of two to not flip during the "S-Bends" I conclude this was a successful weekend. River kayaking...what a trip.